aPiedi.nl - Alta Via 1: trekking over the Sentieri degli Giganthi in Valle d'Aosta

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Alta Via 1 - trekking over the Sentieri degli Giganthi in Valle d'Aosta

In July 2010 we walked the Alta Via 1 in Valle d’Aosta. The original route from this long distance path leads from Gressoney-Saint-Jean to Courmayeur. In the new brochure the route is extended to Donnas. This way you can walk the Alta Via 1 and 2 as a round tour. We only did the part from Courmayeur to Gressoney-Saint-Jean in the opposite direction. This route took us nine days. We stayed in hotels, refuges and one agriturismo (see the accomodation list below).

Recommendations

Brochure and maps

To prepare this trekking we used the brochure “Alte Vie” published by the tourist office in Valle d’Aosta. You can download it from their website and it’s also available in English, German and French. The brochure contains a lot of useful information about the track, accommodation, public transport etcetera. There are also timetables in it for every stage, but in our experience you have to add at least one thirth to the estimated hours. We joined some of the stages, but retrospectively we have to admit that the trekking was rather heavy because of the long daytimes. Don’t underestimate the ascending and the descending: the height differences can be very big if you join stages. We might have enjoyed the trekking more if we didn’t do so!

The route is well marked but in addition we used maps 4 and 5 from Instituto Geografico Centrale (IGC), scale 1:50.000. These are not very recommendable, because they’re not detailed enough and out of date (the pathnumbers on the map didn’t match with the actual pathnumbers anymore). It might be better to obtain maps with a scale 1:25.000, also available from Instituto Geografico Centrale. Buy them already before you leave, because they’re difficult to obtain on the spot.

In our opinion it doesn’t matter in which direction you walk the path. But when you start in Courmayeur, the first days are heavier than the last days. If you start in Gressoney-Saint-Jean, you start more lightly. That’s a choice you have to make for yourself…..

Accommodation

We booked all our accomodations in advance (see accommodation list below). If you’re not carrying a tent, this is highly reccomendable, because some of the accomodations appeared to be fully booked, especially in the weekends. In general we were very content with the refuges: some of them were even very luxurous and the food was always good. And there is the added advantage of a good view and a nice atmosphere. The hotels were mostly empty and the food wasn’t too good either. The only advantage that you get here is a private bathroom and if you’re lucky a good shower….. Unexpectly we also stayed for one night in an agriturismo. We can highly recommend this kind of location because of the atmosphere en the good food! The only disadvantage here were the very loud Italians at the big dinner table, but we have to admit: it was an unforgettable experience…..

Outdoor gear

We didn’t carry crampons, but they might come in handy for crossing snowfields. Also you should bring a set of walking poles.
If you’re not planning on booking your accomodation on beforehand, then you should bring your tent and cooking gear as well. Refuges and hotels can be fully booked in the high season! But remember: you’re not allowed to pitch your tent for the night below 2500 m.

Leaving the car

Parking the car in Courmayeur or Gressoney-Saint-Jean might be very expensive: in the centre of these villages are only commercial parking sites. Luckily we could leave the car in the garage of the hotel….. Else you might find a spot outside of these villages. For example to the north of Gressoney-Saint-Jean along the main road there’s a parking for walkers.

Day to day log
Day 1:Journey from The Netherlands to Courmayeur (su July 18, 2010)
Day 2: walk from Courmayeur to Rifugio Walter Bonatti (7½ hours - mo July 19, 2010)
Day 3: walk from Rifugio Walter Bonatti to Saint-Rhémy (9 hours - tu July 20, 2010)
Day 4: walk from Saint-Rhémy to Rey (9 ¾ hours - we July 21, 2010)
Day 5: walk from Rey to Closé (8 hours - th July 22, 2010)
Day 6: walk from Closé to Rifugio Cuney (8 ¼ hours - fr July 23, 2010)
Day 7: walk from Rifugio Cuney to Rifugio Barmasse (8 ¾ hours - sa July 24, 2010)
Day 8: walk from Rifugio Barmasse to Rifugio Grand Tournalin (7 hours - so July 25, 2010)
Day 9: walk from Rifugio Grand Tournalin to Rifugio Vieux Crest (6 hours - mo July 26, 2010)
Day 10: walk from Rifugio Rifugio Vieux Crest to Rifugio Alpenzu (6 hours - tu July 27, 2010)
Day 11: walk from Rifugio Alpenzu to Gressoney-Saint-Jean (1 hour - we July 28, 2010)
Closing remark
Accomodation list

Day 1: journey from The Netherlands to Courmayeur (su July 18, 2010)

We leave at six and drive by way of Switzerland to Italy. The roads are not too crowded so at four in the afternoon we cross the Col del Gran San Bernardo. The weather is very good so the route over the col is very enjoyable. At six we arrive in Courmayeur and go search for a hotel (the only accommodation we didn’t book in advance). We end up in the Walser Hotel and when we inquire after a parking spot in Courmayeur for the car during the trip, the owner of the hotel luckily offers us a spot in the garage underneath the hotel.

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Day 2: walk from Courmayeur to Rifugio Walter Bonatti (7½ hours - mo July 19, 2010)

We have a short walk ahead of us, so we start only at nine today. From Courmayeur we have to climb 600 meters to Rifugio Bertone. The beginning goes trough the woods, but not long after that we have a great view back over Courmayeur. After two hours we arrive at the refuge. We decide to have a lunch break at the terrace and order minestrone con fontina (soup with local cheese) and risotto ai funghi. After this long and pleasant break, we’re walking along through green alps with great views over the Mont Blanc. We’re staying now at about 2000 m height. At the end we’re having a bit of a mix-up with our map (the pathnumbers on the map don’t match with the actual pathnumbers anymore), but after a few hours we arrive at Rifugio Walter Bonatti. We get a room of our own and take a short shower (you get a coin for this and after 4 minutes the water turns cold!). The beds on the contrary are very good. On the terrace we’re enjoying a cold pint: we think we deserved it after this first day of walking…..

At seven thirty we’re expected in the very crowded dinner room. We’re sharing a table with some Australian, American and English people. They’re all walking the Tour Mont Blanc and have never heard of the Alta Via 1…..they don’t know what they’re missing out on…… After the vitello tonnato, pasta bolognese, meat stew, chololate pudding and a discussion about dutch football (“Didn’t you guys almost win the world championship?”), we’re having a coffee on the terrace with the setting of the sun behind the Mont Blanc.

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Day 3: walk from Rifugio Walter Bonatti to Saint-Rhémy (9 hours - July 20, 2010)

We’re having an early breakfast, because today will be a long and heavy day! After saying good bye to the TMB walkers we leave at eight. Immediately there’s a steep climb but after half an hour we’re standing at a very beautiful green pasture. Here we see the first marmot jumping away. After crossing the pasture we have to climb again. But after this very steep path we’re rewarded with a great view: we can already see the Col Malatra. During a short break we see a marmot again: this one wants to pose for a photo…..

There’s still a steep climb ahead of us, but it’s not to hard to reach the Col Malatra (2925 m, the highest col on the Alta Via 1). Descending on the other side is steeper: there’s a secured passage with ropes and stairs. After this trial we have to cross some big snowfields, but we can still find our way very well. Near Tsa de Merdeux volunteers are building a new refuge (Rifugio Lac). They’re carrying the stones up the mountain on their back…..and we thought our backpack was heavy…..

Further on we descend through a green valley with a river. At some spots the path is very overgrown which is not very comfortable. After a long walk we reach the first hamlet. Not long after that we arrive at Hotel Suisse in Saint- Rhémy. It looks very nice and the room is very good, but the good food as promised on the website unfortunately isn’t served. Besides the portions are very small and there are not many other guests.

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Day 4: walk from Saint-Rhémy to Rey (9 ¾ hours - we July 21, 2010)

There are no shops in Saint-Rhémy so we have to order a picknick at the hotel. There’s bad weather expected so we have an early start again. First we ascend slowly over wide paths through the woods. Over an overgrown path we have to descend again. Sometimes we wonder if we’re still on the right path but on the end of it luckily there are the yellow signs again. After crossing a river we have to climb again over a small path through the woods en later on over a steep path to the Col Champillon (2709m). We have to pass a shepherd with three aggressive dogs, but thanks to the “Dazer II” we’re carrying, they slink off again….the sheep with their flappy ears though look very nice.

The air is very humid again and that makes the climbing very heavy. So we’re glad when we reach the col eventually. We eat the fresh apricots from our packed lunch. Luckily they taste better then the sandwich with cheese: this was hard and dry enough to hit someone with it. We don’t rest too long because it’s becoming very cloudy. We descend quickly to Rifugio Champillon and have a drink at the terrace. After that we descend further, but after an hour we appear to be on the wrong path. There are no Alta Via signs anymore….. A few moments later we come across an Italian couple and luckily they’re carrying a better map than we are. They help us in the right direction again. Over a very steep path trough the woods we proceed and not long after it starts to rain and thunder very heavy. We take shelter under de trees. At almost six o’clock we arrive soaking wet at Hotel Mont Gele in Rey. The view from the room is very nice, but there are no other guests and we have to go for dinner at another restaurant in the village. The food is not very special but at least there’s enough.....

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Luckiliy there’s an “alimentari” in Ollomont so today we can compose our own packed lunch. After the shopping there’s a new challenge waiting for us: Col Brison (2480 m). We ascend over wide paths through the woods and reach then more open terrain. After Berrio Superiore the path becomes smaller and steeper. Some parts are difficult because of erosion. A few moments later we understand why, we come across a motor-cyclist who probably uses this path for his daily shopping….. We reach the col and descend a bit in order to find a suitable picknick spot near to some deserted sheds. Here we enjoy our fresh panino with prosciutto. It becomes very cloudy again, so we proceed over the small path through the woods. When we pass the sheds, we’re startled by a noise, there appear to be cows in it…..

Once we’ve reached Closé, we’re goning to look for La Place Moulin, the hotel we booked. We come across an inhabitant and ask her where the hotel is. She tells us that it’s still 10 km…..we’re not planning to walk that anymore today, so we decide to look for another accommodation. The Valentino Hotel appears to be full, but the owner is very nice and arranges a room for us at agriturismo La Renardière. There’s also still room for us at the very large dinner table so we’re enjoying very much the grilled courgettes and peppers, polenta with sauce, sausages, salad (freshly picked from the garden) and for dessert a fruit salad. We’re not the only Alta Via walkers at the table: there’s also Virginie from France. She’ s walking a bit faster then we are…..but she is used to running marathons in the mountains, no wonder….. In the rain we walk back to our room.

When we wake up it’s still raining. Virginie wants to set out early so at seven we’re having our breakfast. Anne Marie (the lady from the agriturismo) takes us to the shop at the camping but they’re not planning to open before eight. Then Anne Marie shows her face inside, and we get to do our shopping after all…..obviously she looked very angry.

We’re being dropped off at the route again and exchange telephone numbers with Virginie. It’s dry when we start walking, but after half an hour it’s raining again and not long after we’re in the middle of a heavy thunderstorm. We’re still in the woods, so we’re safe. After a bit of climbing we reach a great valley: Comba di Vessonaz. Along a river we walk further over a path through the grass. After that we pass a herd of cows and ascend again over a steep path to the Col de Vessonaz (2793 m). It’s very cold up here and it’s blowing hard, so we’re not staying to long at the col. We descend a bit and reach bivacco Rosaire Clermont where we enjoy our panini with prosciutto. After the break we still have a few cols to go, but the weather is getting better and the climbing is not too heavy anymore.

First we arrive at Col Chaleby (2653 m) and after that we cross Col du Salvè (2568 m). Sooner than we had expected, we arrive at Rifugio Cuney (2650 m). The host shows us around and to our big surprise we meet Virginie again in the dormitory…..we thought she would be far ahead of us by now.

It’s still sunny so we're going outside to enjoy the view and take some pictures. The refuge is not to luxurous, but on the contrary it’s situated in an amazing spot…. Today the dinner consists of spaghetti with four cheeses, sausages with courgettes and an apple. After a day like this, that tastes very well…..

Day 7: walk from Rifugio Cuney to Rifugio Barmasse (8 ¾ hours - sa July 24, 2010)

Today we have a very good breakfast with fresh bread and lots of Nutella….. We wave off Virginie again and pack our own bags. It’s still very cold when we get out. Immediately we have to challenge two very steep snowfields. We’re not carrying snowshoes, so it costs us some extra time to bypass these obstacles. After that we ascend gradually to the first col. Meanwhile we see a chamois jumping away over the mountain-ridge. When we reach Col Terray (2775 m) we get a beautiful view at Lac de Luseney on the other side of the mountain.

At bivacco Reboulaz we deside to have our first break. While we’re eating an apple we have a “sneak preview” at the next col: the climb up there looks very steep and heavy….. Luckily for us the ascending is less heavy than we had imagined and soon we reach Fenêtre de Tzan (2736 m) where it hails a bit! We descend a bit and reach Lac de Tzan where we enjoy our panini with fontina and salami. The colours of the lake are beautiful…..

Then we walk further to Fenêtre d’Esra (2290 m) where we can already see Monte Rosa and Cervino (Matterhorn). With a constant great view over these giant mountains we’re walking further through a green pasture. Eventually we end up at Rigugio Barmasse near to Lac de Cignana. The wind is blowing very hard here so we get in quickly. We get a room of our own, because the dormitories are full of noisy kids….. now we’re glad that we booked on beforehand! For dinner we’re having penne with tomato sauce and pollo al diavolo. The hosts are to busy with the kids to make coffee for us, so we return to our room soon. We try to get some sleep, but it’s still noisy for a long time…..

Day 8: walk from Rifugio Barmasse to Rifugio Grand Tournalin (7 hours - so July 25, 2010)

We wake up early in order to avoid the noisy bunch of kids. Breakfast is a bit scanty: there’s no bread at all, just some crackers. We leave at eight and descend in one and a half hour to Crétaz. We have already noticed the yellow flags along the path, but now we understand why they’re put there: today there’s a marathon. We were just in time to avoid the runners, they start at nine thirty from the village….. From Crétaz we ascend again, first over a path through the woods, then through open fields and over rocky paths. Meanwhile we have a break and after that Col des Fontaines (2695 m) is easily reached. Soon also the second col is reached: Col di Nannaz (2773 m). The view is amazing here…..

We descend again and sooner than we had imagined we reach Rifugio Grand Tournalin. The rooms are not ready yet, so we have to wait a bit. That’s no problem at all, because this refuge is also situated very well. After getting to our room we take a long and hot shower: the last shower we had was three days ago…..that freshens up! Today we even have time for a beer in the bar, that’s nice for a change. For dinner we’re having lasagne, polenta with meatstew and crème caramel for dessert. While we’re enjoying this very good meal, we spot some moving dark spots on the mountain-side: they appear to be grazing capricorns, but they’re to far away to take a good picture of them. We’re hoping to see more of them later on the evening, but we don’t have that much of luck.

Day 9: walk from Rifugio Grand Tournalin to Rifugio Vieux Crest (6 hours - mo July 26, 2010)

Today’s walk will be short, so we take a moment’s rest this morning. We leave at nine o’clock and descend slowly through a great green valley along a river. We spot a lot of marmots here. After two hours we arrive in Saint-Jacques. Here we buy some postcards and look around a bit. The village is not too special, but if you still need some outdoor gear, there’s a shop where you could buy it. Over a path through the woods we climb to Rifugio Ferraro where we have lunch on the terrace with penne, red wine and crostata (italian jam tart). The last stage to Crest is very boring: this is probably the worst part of the Alta Via 1.

On the contrary we’re being well received in the refuge: we get a coffee in the bar and the room is very good, we even have a bathroom of our own….. After freshening up we’re going up to the bar for a beer. Then a great dinner is being served. Successively we get to enjoy bruschette with tomato and goath’s cheese, vegetable soup, red wine risotto, pork package and a cake with red fruits for dessert. This is the last thing we had expected in a refuge…..

Day 10: walk from Rifugio Rifugio Vieux Crest to Rifugio Alpenzu (6 hours - tu July 27, 2010)

It’s already hot outside when we leave the refuge. We ascend gradually through a great green valley and cross Cuneaz, a small mountain village beautifully situated. We have to let a herd of kettle cross the road and then we proceed. Meanwhile we have a nice view over Lacs de Pinter. Finally we reach the last col of the Alta Via 1: Col Pinter at 2777 m height.

Day 11: walk from Rifugio Alpenzu to Gressoney-Saint-Jean (1 hour - we July 28, 2010)

We leave in time in order to catch a bus. After an hour we reach the centre of Gressoney-Saint-Jean. We have to wait an hour for the next bus, so we have a look around in the village. There are some nice shops, but we’re glad we didn’t stay the night here. The hotels don’t look too cosy. Then the bus arrives and we’re on our way back to Courmayeur and our car. We have to change in Pont-Saint-Martin and in Aosta, but after a few hours we’re there.

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